Fork Bleeders

I actually thought about this also, (NOT THE MOISTURE) about the vacume that would exist after cool down. I just figured with the bleeders it would simply pull in through the bleeders (like a radiator cap and Coolant Reservoir work / just without a reservoir). But with a screw I guess it would have to seep in past the seals and I never really gave much thought to the moisture thing. Just another reason to add fork fluid change to the maintenance list in the winter I guess.
 
FYI. Another problem that can happen with fork tubes is using the wrong size screw on your lower fork guards. The lower fork guards and front rotor cover use 2 different length screws. The rotor cover screws are longer. I bought an 08 CRF250(used) and the guy used the wrong screws on the fork guards. WHat this does is dimples the lower tubes and you will not be able to get the springs out of the tubes. Had to buy new lower tubes to put new springs in for my kids weight.
 
all i use are the moose bleeders as well. i got tired of the off brands leaking. moose are by far the best and never had a problem
TCracing said:
Have used three different brands. Two After market name brand. One After market Off brand. All Leak Fluid. Which means they leak air. Which EQUALS worthless.
Fact is the air Resists bottoming after blowing through the mid stoke. loosing fluid creates less bottoming resistance and, WELL..., you see were this snowball is going...
Can anyone suggest a good simple fork bleeder that works? Else I'm putting the srews back in.
Click to expand...
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top