Rear Brake Question

LuckyStar64

LuckyStar64

PR Addict
When it comes to the rear brake-- I feel like less is more. I actually PREFER a rear drum to a disc as the drum will slow the rear wheel down, but will take a mighty stomp on the pedal to lock up.

Since I'm trying to cut the stopping power of a rear disc brake, I'm wondering if bleeding some of the fluid out will take some sensitivity out of it, and give it some modulation?

A while ago-- I did this to the front brake on a road racer by running a master cylinder with a bigger bore than stock, with the stock caliper. It did exactly what I wanted. I'm just looking to not spend any cash, and get the same result. Anybody know anything about this? --Tony C.
 
Or trim your brake pads and create less of a surface. We used to do that on the right front of our race cars.
 
I was thinking about grinding out some of the pad surface area. But I started thinking about the asbestos dust... Ya think that would work? I probably will try lowering the pedal-- the price is right on that particular solution. --L*64
 
I actually was thinking about this a while back, and I know this is going to sound Completely, well OUT of THE BOX!!! But I was thinking of intentionally leaving a slight amount of AIR in the system to accomplish what you are striving for (Sort of a controlled anti lock feature). BUT this wouldn't work as the air would create constant DRAG, I would think, and just eat up the pads, and rotors, create excess heat, and cause total fade. NOT GOOD.
BUT!!! If you could develop a lever with an adjustable Fulcrum point to the brakes push rod (so the rod could be moved closer to the pivot of the foot pedal) that would be sweet. and you could adjust for different riding conditions at the track easily.
I like the cutting pads Idea less surface area less stopping power.
You could try changing pads, Ceramics don't work so well until warmed up nor in wet conditions so that may help.
 
If someone was to make a caliper with a bypass bladder. Basically like the rear shock and nitrogen tank, with an adjustment screw to change or regulate the bypass check valve spring. IE like the compression adjustment screw. I think people would buy it. would be great on tracks with hard pack flat corners or excess wet conditions. Maybe I should call R&D and get them on this...
Not everyone has that calibrated foot for the rear break. I know from watching most people its usually "stomp, or no stomp." with the right foot. LOL
 
Grind away two brake pads taking 1/4 from each side to give you 1/2 the surface. You could try just one pad for starters, then go to 2 if you can feel a difference.
 
pasimp57 said:
Grind away two brake pads taking 1/4 from each side to give you 1/2 the surface. You could try just one pad for starters, then go to 2 if you can feel a difference.
Click to expand...


WHAT?!!!?:confused:
when your pads wear the fluid in the reservoir makes up the travel, Unlike old drum brakes with a rod (had to be adjusted for wear to keep pedal Height / travel). So as I said, WHAT???

All this will do is prematurely wear, and ruin a set of pads... Don't do this, unless of course your goal is simply to ruin a set of brake pads.

Please explain this? Maybe I'm just too dense.
 
I know what he means. He means to grind out... say, a quarter inch groove into the pad face (down to the backing plate). That way instead of having a square inch of surface area grabbing on the rotor under braking, you'd have maybe two thirds of that. He didn't mean to make the thickness of the pads less. That wouldn't do anything except make it so that you'd need new pads sooner.

The next time I ride the bike-- I'm going to adjust the lever lower, to see if I apply less pressure on it during braking. If that doesn't do it-- then I'll try suckier pads. I'm going to look into a rear master that has a bigger bore. That would be the best way to modulate the power at the pedal. I was hoping to not spend any cash though.

It would be really cool if somebody invented master cylinders where you could literally dial in the sensitivity to pressure applied. The front really isn't as necessary, b/c it's easier to modulate with your hand...(haha!) than with a booted foot. Maybe it's my calling? --L*64
 
That's exactly it.

LuckyStar64 said:
I know what he means. He means to grind out... say, a quarter inch groove into the pad face (down to the backing plate). That way instead of having a square inch of surface area grabbing on the rotor under braking, you'd have maybe two thirds of that. He didn't mean to make the thickness of the pads less. That wouldn't do anything except make it so that you'd need new pads sooner.

The next time I ride the bike-- I'm going to adjust the lever lower, to see if I apply less pressure on it during braking. If that doesn't do it-- then I'll try suckier pads. I'm going to look into a rear master that has a bigger bore. That would be the best way to modulate the power at the pedal. I was hoping to not spend any cash though.

It would be really cool if somebody invented master cylinders where you could literally dial in the sensitivity to pressure applied. The front really isn't as necessary, b/c it's easier to modulate with your hand...(haha!) than with a booted foot. Maybe it's my calling? --L*64
Click to expand...
 
LuckyStar64 said:
I know what he means. He means to grind out... say, a quarter inch groove into the pad face (down to the backing plate). That way instead of having a square inch of surface area grabbing on the rotor under braking, you'd have maybe two thirds of that. He didn't mean to make the thickness of the pads less. That wouldn't do anything except make it so that you'd need new pads sooner.

The next time I ride the bike-- I'm going to adjust the lever lower, to see if I apply less pressure on it during braking. If that doesn't do it-- then I'll try suckier pads. I'm going to look into a rear master that has a bigger bore. That would be the best way to modulate the power at the pedal. I was hoping to not spend any cash though.

It would be really cool if somebody invented master cylinders where you could literally dial in the sensitivity to pressure applied. The front really isn't as necessary, b/c it's easier to modulate with your hand...(haha!) than with a booted foot. Maybe it's my calling? --L*64
Click to expand...

OK, yeah I see. I was thinking grinding 1/2 the pad off (thickness) DER!! WHAT!!! Don't do that. Grooves, Yes! I would say that would work for sure. Although I would bet brake fade would be noticeably higher if you use the rear excessively.

I really do believe people would buy a Master Cylinder that would allow for an adjustable check valve, as I explained above (Earlier post). You could still lock up the rear wheel when you wanted by hammering it, and otherwise allow more controlled breaking especially in touchy situations, the rest of the time.
 
What brand of pads are you using? I had tried a certain brand that was really touchie and made it too easy to lock up.
I went back to OEM pads and found them to offer more "feel" with less tendency to lock-up.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top